¡AH, FALTA QUE HACE EL MUTE..!

 

El encanto del mute.

Por: Jorge Enrique Báez Vera. De niño fueron muchos los mandados que tenía que hacer, mandados que hoy sigo haciendo. Los que hacía de niño, los hacía por orden de Merceditas, unos, por gusto otros; mandados que hoy que sigo haciendo, unos por poder de mis clientes, y los otros por el mandato  de Amapola…mi esposa,(me declaro narcodependiente) o la bien casada…como le dicen sus amigas,  calidad esta que le permitió presidir cuando vivíamos en Cúcuta, otra OEA….ORGANIZACION DE ESPOSAS AFORTUNADAS, de la cual formaban parte además las señoras De Abreo, De Cardenas, y De Granados….…pero en fin sigamos con los mandados, otro día seguimos con la OEA,  y con la ADEENS, ASOCIACION DE ESPOSOS EJEMPLARES DEL N de S,  que se reunía el mismo sitio , hora y día de la OEA, y conformada por sus conyugues.

Cuando uno, de niño,  por su cuenta, pretendía alejarse una cuadras allá del barrio, era peligrosísimo , para la mamá, o para uno cuando por pura pereza , no quería ir, pero cuando se trataba de hacer un mandado, o ir a  jugar un desafío de futbol,  bien lo podían mandar a uno a ,o incursionar por cuenta propia, mas allá de Cuberos Niño, o el Paramo, limites de la Cabrera, que era nuestro hábitat natural,  y una de esas ocasiones eran los domingos al mediodía, cuando tipo once y media de la mañana, así no hubiera orden, sabíamos por rutina, que teníamos que coger la olla con tapa, y la jarra, y enrumbarnos hacia La Dacha, quinta con 16, por el mute, los pasteles de garbanzo y el masato, ineludible menú casero de todos, absolutamente todos, los hogares cucuteños.

¿Quien, no ha salido un domingo cucuteño, con olla en la mano, a dirigirse a alguna venta tradicional de mute, tipo La Dacha, o a la casa vecina, en donde cuelga el consabido letrero…..MUTE LOS DOMINGOS?…..cucuteño que no lo haya hecho: es boyaco.

Los domingos, es el día de la semana, donde gastronómicamente fluye, esa tochada, que llaman idiosincrasia ,pero que no es otra cosa, que nuestro arraigo a la olla de la nona, o de la vecina, o de La Dacha, olla en donde cada domingo, hierven en agua, el callo, los trozos de mano de res, la carne de cerdo, la costilla de res, la cebolla junca, el maíz blanco ya cocido, los garbanzos previamente remojados, las papas peladas y en rodajas, las conchitas de pasta, la berenjena pelada y cortada en tajadas, la auyama pelada y picada, receta esta que poco y nada varia en cada cocina cucuteña, y que esta en mora de ser declarado patrimonio cultural de la nación.

Los domingos en mi casa, como en casi todo Cúcuta,  empezaban, los sábados en la noche, cuando doña Merceditas, llegaba con las hayacas, que compraba unas veces subiendo de su trabajo, en La Estrella, mercado publico de la séptima entre doce y trece, o que había que comprarle por colaboración a la vecina, que las hizo para vender ese fin de semana, para cuadrar lo de la pensión de los muchachos….esa hayacas, que no sabemos si las copiamos de los venecos o fueron ellos quienes cuya receta se contrabandearon y  que pocas veces había que calentarlas, por que llegaban todavía con el calor de la olla, eran la comida de los sábados….ah que rico ser cucuteño…..y poder degustar una buena hayaca.

Esa tochada, idiosincrasia que le dicen,   seguía fluyendo los domingos en la mañana, cuando desayunábamos con tamalitos cuadraditos, de masa dura y relleno de garbanzo y pollo,  de esos que cuando me vine de Cúcuta, aun vendían, detrás del hospital, en la primera entre doce y trece, y que mi mama llevaba también los sábados en la noche, tamalitos que con pan y café, eran el mejor desayuno de la semana.

Mucho duraría escribiendo sobre el dulce de platico, que siempre existió en Cúcuta, pero que elevo a categoría gourmet, Abilio Guevara, en la Tercera con tercera, frente a mi segundo hogar, la casa del negro Juaco, y ni hablar del cabrito, los pasteles de garbanzo y el masato, complemento del mute dominical….de la aguapanela….buena como la de Quiroga….10 entre cuarta y quinta, y mejor las de Doña Mercedes, la mama del Negro……”…..Anailse…..llego Báez, sírvale la aguapanela…” y capítulo aparten  merecen los cortados donde Mojica, once con segunda, a donde se iba no solo a mecatear,  sino a gozar con las piedras del dueño, y peores la  del hijo, que  las del papá.

Y que me dicen de las  rellenas de la quince, con quinta, frente al antiguo Consulado, o las de Centrales, sin dejar de mencionar los comederos de La Pesa, donde terminaban nuestras primeras rascas de principios del 70. La comida cucuteña, la de casa y la callejera, da para un programa de Antony Bourdain en el Gourmet Chanel.

Capitulo especial, merecen también las rampuchadas de El Zulia, y los sancochos de rió, ya fuera en el mismo Zulia, o en Los Vados, o La Honda, o los que servían, no se si aun lo hacen, a la entrada de CORPONOR, en el corregimiento Las Piedras, sin dejar de mencionar las cachamas de Juan Frió.

A mi los libros de Jorge Amado me huelen a frito, como me huelen los recuerdos de cuanto metedero y comedero callejero  hubo y supongo que hay aun  en Cúcuta,  los que aspiro recorrer con el Mocho Arenas, y mis hijos, cuando vuelva, para que ellos conozcan no solo una buena comida, sino lo que es una  “lengua arrecha”, como la del acompañante.

Me vine de Cúcuta hace trece años, y pesar de lo bueno que vivo en Pereira,  me hace mucha, pero mucha falta, además de su comida,  su gente y mis amigos,  su…. “calor tan arrecho…mano”…sus anchas avenidas, sus árboles, su viento,….su…”tierrero tan hijuemadre….”, los saludos de esquina a esquina…..”¿Ole pingo, ya no conoce?….las pastas, la paca de pipas, el guineo, los arrastraos, los cortados  de leche, el Extra,  los jueves en El Molinito, donde había que asistir en defensa propia, para evitar la alevosía y malsalva de los amigos que rajarían del ausente.

Extrañamos la bolera que dan los chinos,  extrañamos los papás de los amigos, con quienes hicimos amistades cómplices, como la de Don Félix, extrañamos a Doña Mercedes , su esposa, mamá adoptiva de toda la cuadrilla del Negro……extrañamos la paciencia, la tranquilidad, la mesura y el don de gentes, de Don Pacho, el papá de Pelusa, por quien ya me tome toda la Coca Cola que me tenia que tomar en la vida……”…carajo ,si ayer traje dos cajas……papá, fue que vinieron  Jorge y Juaco….ah bueno …ya por ahí…” y terminaba la piedra y traía otras dos cajas. ¡Que buena gente fue Don Pacho¡

Como no recordar, la ternura de Doña Helenita,  el agite laboral de Don Simón, viejos queridos que aunque ya se fueron, para mi siguen presentes en la distancia…como todos los papás vivos de mis amigos.

Jorge Enrique Báez Vera

Por eso, me hace falta ir a visitar a Doña Carmen, en el Lleras, calle 1 con segunda, a recibir raciones grandes de cariño, con  regaños de ñapa; por que doña Carmen, en cuanto mas quiere , mas regaña….y a mi si que me regaño…por eso  la recuerdo con tanto afecto, y escribo esto para que se lo cuenten, y así tener ya cantaleta asegurada, para cuando la visite, por que se cariño aun me tiene….y ah falta que me hace recibirlo en persona y me muero por abrazarla,  vieja querida.

Me falta la vivacidad  y el corre-corre de doña Miriam, la laboriosidad de Doña Marina. Extraño a los tíos y los primos,…los amigos…los compañeros de colegio…me hace falta  mi Cúcuta toda…si todo eso hace mucha falta, pero los domingos, por muy buenos que sean los domingos paisas, es cuando  se nos sale toda  la tochada, y por ahí a las once y media….doce, merodeando la cocina,  o llamando al domicilio, o camino al restaurante….con nostalgia triste pero con alegre orgullo cucutoche  se nos sale el ..¡ah falta que hace el mute..!

157 Responses to ¡AH, FALTA QUE HACE EL MUTE..!

  1. Ruth Lemus agosto 15, 2010 en 7:18 pm

    Amo inmensamente a esta ciudad, y es delicioso como la degusta este cucuteño fugado.

    Responder
  2. Marina Alarcón agosto 15, 2010 en 11:45 pm

    Tienes toda la razón de lo bella que es Cúcuta, y también extraño todos los lugares que menciona, me hace recordar todas las cosas sabrosas que se comen en nuestra tierrita.

    Responder
  3. Pepe agosto 17, 2010 en 10:44 am

    ufff..que delicia todos esos platos..si no estuviese tan lejos de mi tierra (en New York) ya estaria en alguno de esos restaurantes degustandolos todos…
    Excelente artículo para revivir nuestra tierra….

    Responder
  4. Guillermo Eduardo Mantilla Nieto agosto 17, 2010 en 1:43 pm

    …..nunca como en Cúcuta……, para apreciar nuestra gastronomía. Las dotes de escritor/cocinero, te elevan a especial invitación en Noviembre próximo para darnos un buen atracón de pastelitos, masato, mute, arrastrados, mojicón y mejor no seguir…., pues la Yel, está que hace aguas………

    Responder
  5. Gabriel Medina Soto agosto 19, 2010 en 9:25 am

    Quihubo mano, la berraquera de escrito. De verdad que extrañamos nuestra tierrita así tengamos tantisísimos años por fuera de ella. Añado unos recuerdos más: AQUI ME QUEDO el restaurante que quedaba llegando al cementerio, la TURRA PETRA, el cabrito donde Marimón en El Salado, las primeras Costeñitas en el cafe EL CORDOBES y las hamburguesa de EL PALACIO, calle nueve con cuarta. Y no más porque arranco ya pa’ Cúcuta mano.

    Responder
  6. GERMAN FRANCISCO COLMENARES ROJAS agosto 19, 2010 en 12:25 pm

    JORGE AMIGO:

    GRACIAS POR TU COMENTARIO RESPECTO A MIS PADRES; LA VERDAD SE ME AGUARON LOS OJOS, Y ME ATRAGANTE HACIENDOSEME UN NUDO EN EL GUARGERO (COMO LE DECIMOS EN CUCUTA A LA GARGANTA ) MIENTRAS SE LO LEIA A MI MAMA. ME DIJO QUE POR FAVOR LE REGALARA UNA LLAMADA. TU TIENES EL TELEFONO CIERTO?

    ESTUPENDO TU ARTICULO. TE FELICITO. UN ABRAZO EN NOMBRE DE MIS HERMANOS Y DEL MIO PROPIO.

    GERMAN COLMENARES

    Responder
  7. Beatriz agosto 20, 2010 en 10:29 am

    Hola Jorge:
    Si…. es cierto….. cuando uno sale extraña a Cúcuta, eso me dice Monica, uno no la aprecia porque sale temporadas maximo un mes, ahora esta muy bonita han hecho muchos centros comerciales y edificios, no la va a conocer cuando venga….. lo unico que no cambia es el mute ja ja ja….un abrazo

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  8. ORLANDO COLMENARES agosto 20, 2010 en 4:56 pm

    La saco del estadio ( frenta a la manino donde jugabamos ). Los sitios eran asi de buenos. Los recuerdos de las personas son un reflejo de lo que ellos eran. Gracias por los comentarios y remenbranzas de doña carmen y don pacho. Con cariño nosotros tambien lo recordamos a usted. saludos

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  9. Nidia Colmenares agosto 21, 2010 en 3:09 pm

    Hola Jorge me parecio espectacular tu comentario sobre mis padres, en especial el de don pacho. mis hijos y yo lo extrañamos mucho porque dejo huella en cada uno de nosotros y de nuestros amigos..
    falto recordar nuestras grandes fiestas con coca cola y limonada. y despues la regañada de doña carmen

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  10. Luis Alfonso ramirez agosto 21, 2010 en 9:49 pm

    Doctor, le escribo y ocupo su tiempo para agradecerle lo que escribió en su articulo “¡AH, FALTA QUE HACE EL MUTE…!, no sólo por hacerme recordar los olores, los sabores y los colores que tenian mi infancia, sino que sus palabras, con las cuales describe a mis abuelos “Don Pacho” y “Doña Carmen” hicieron que los ojos se me aguaran de alegria y de mucho orgullo al leer cada palabra, cada letra con las que les detallaba; imaginese entonces la alegria y el orgullo que sintió mi madre Irma cuando las leyó.

    Señor Jorge, amigo Jorge, gracias muchas gracias por esas palabras tan sinceras y llenas de amor por esas dos personas, tanto amor que me apena el hecho de saber que ellos fueron, son y siempre serán tal cual como usted les describió, pero que nunca tuve las palabras justas para describirles y a usted le debo ese favor.

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  11. Juan agosto 21, 2010 en 9:57 pm

    Mas de una vez, comparti con Usted, aguapanela y pasteles, donde Quiroga, cerca al almacen de Doña Merceditas, su mamà….¿ cuando va escribir sobre ella? excelente mujer que fue, la señora Mercedes.

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  12. Rafael agosto 21, 2010 en 10:03 pm

    Dr Bàez, buen cucuteño, buen escritor, buen amigo y buen comelon

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  13. ESPERANZA cOLMENARES agosto 22, 2010 en 9:06 pm

    Hola bien por esta descripcion tan perfecto de mi viejo Pacho, ojala vengas pronto para gozar con los recuerdos

    Responder
  14. MAU-CAFE enero 17, 2011 en 10:10 pm

    Tanta falta hace para los paisanos que tenemos abierto hasta los domingos nuestro restaurante en el cual los atendemos con mute,pasteles y hayacas desde las 9 am hasta que el ultimo trasnochado-amanecido llega por el mutecito con la olla expres y todo….
    somos MAU-CAFE,y estamos en bogota en la cra 8a #108-25 tel:400 95 82

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